If you’ve ever driven through Bridgwater and thought, “Isn’t this just roadworks and roundabouts?” – you’d be forgiven. But just a couple of miles outside town lies the site of the Battle of Sedgemoor (1685) – the last pitched battle ever fought on English soil.
Yes, the last one. After Sedgemoor, Britain more or less decided: “You know what? Maybe let’s stick to shouting in Parliament instead.”
And the battlefield? You’ll find it in Westonzoyland, just three miles outside of Bridgwater. A quiet Somerset village now, but back in the day it was chaos: muskets, pikes, cannons, and one very tired rebel army marching across the marshes… in the dark.
What actually happened?
So, the year is 1685. James II is on the throne, but not everyone’s thrilled about it. Enter James Scott, the Duke of Monmouth (illegitimate son of Charles II, all-round chancer, and not-so-great military strategist). He raises an army of West Country rebels – farmers, labourers, townsfolk with the idea… to overthrow the King.
The rebels set up camp in Bridgwater and, one night in July, decided to launch a surprise attack on the royal forces camped at Sedgemoor. Surprise being the key word… except it didn’t go that way.
Marching through the Somerset Levels in the pitch dark, the rebels stumbled across rhynes (the drainage ditches crisscrossing the marshes). Imagine trying to cross a field while falling into unexpected canals every few hundred yards. Not ideal. By the time they reached the royal camp, the element of surprise had drowned somewhere near Chedzoy.
The King’s troops were well-fed, well-armed, and definitely not stuck in a ditch. Due to this they cut the rebels down with relative ease. Around a thousand Monmouth men were killed, and many more captured. The Duke himself was caught hiding in a ditch under a bush. (Legend has it he disguised himself as a shepherd. The problem was he had big hair and was quite well know. So that didn’t go well for him either.
And that was that. The rebellion collapsed, Monmouth lost his head (literally, on Tower Hill), and England’s last civil war came to an end.
Visiting the battlefield today
The Battle of Sedgemoor might not get the same hype as Hastings or Waterloo, but it’s a fascinating spot to visit. You can walk to the battlefield and the memorial stone, about 2km from Westonzoyland Church. The walk is flat but the signposting is dreadful. It’s almost as if someone in the 17th century thought: “Let’s make sure no tourists ever find this place.”
Top tip: bring decent shoes (it can get muddy), and maybe Google Maps, unless you fancy re-enacting the rebels’ late-night confusion.
When you get there, you’ll find a stone monument marking the site, surrounded by the kind of quiet countryside where you can almost hear the echo of musket fire… or just a distant tractor.
If you’d rather start indoors, pop into St Mary’s Church, Westonzoyland. It doubles as the Battle of Sedgemoor Visitor Centre, with displays about the battle, the rebellion, and the rather grim aftermath (think Judge Jeffreys’ Bloody Assizes). It’s a small but atmospheric stop, perfect for getting your head around the story before trekking to the battlefield.
The church itself is beautiful, with stained glass and a tower that’s seen it all. If walls could talk, these would probably be muttering: “Not another school trip.”
Other things to do nearby
You don’t have to be a military history nerd to enjoy the area. Westonzoyland and Bridgwater offer plenty more:
- Westonzoyland Pumping Station Museum – just down the road, this museum tells the story of land drainage and steam power. Yes, drainage. It’s more exciting than it sounds, especially with massive old engines that clank and roar into life.
- The Somerset Levels – flat, open landscapes with skies so wide they make you feel like you’re on a film set. Great for birdwatching, cycling, or just pondering why rebels thought marshland was a good place for a stealthy night march.
- Bridgwater town – home to the UK’s biggest illuminated carnival (seriously, Glastonbury eat your heart out). Also check out St Mary’s Church (a gothic giant in the town centre of Bridgwater with amazing architecture. The Blake Museum (dedicated to Admiral Robert Blake, Britain’s forgotten naval giant), and the Brick & Tile Museum (yes, bricks, but surprisingly interesting) are also worth a visit. You can also walk around the historic town, which was the first to petition the government for the abolition of the slave trade.
If you like your history mixed with rebellion, fireworks, and the odd pint, Bridgwater’s got you sorted.
Check out our guide: Thing to do in Bridgwater
Why it matters
The Battle of Sedgemoor isn’t just about the clash of swords and muskets. It’s about a community, who were brave enough (or foolish enough, depending on your view) to take a stand. It’s part of Bridgwater’s DNA, the same rebellious streak that led the town to be the first in Britain to petition against the slave trade decades later, and the same spirit you’ll see today in the carnival carts.
History here isn’t locked away in books. It’s in the fields, in the churches, in the streets of Bridgwater itself.
Think Local First
At Sedgemoor fm, we’re all about supporting the Think Local First campaign. Visiting the battlefield, grabbing a coffee in a Bridgwater café, popping into the Blake Museum, it all helps keep local history alive and the local economy buzzing.
So next time you’re tempted to drive straight past Bridgwater on the M5, or on your way to North Devon, don’t. Pull over, take the detour, and step into a field where the last great battle on English soil was fought. Just remember: unlike Monmouth’s rebels, you’ve got Google Maps.